It’s a basic burger done to perfection.
By Edmund Tijerina
March 2, 2011
Let the jostling begin for the title of San Antonio’s Best Burger.
Fattboy Burgers & Dogs has arrived, and it’s a worthy competitor for that title.
At its heart, it’s a basic burger, with hand-patted fresh ground beef, nicely seasoned, with a juicy interior and a slightly crisp crust from a good flattop grill sear, between two buns lightly toasted on that same flattop.
There are no fancy spices, unusual cooking techniques or flavor infusions; just a straightforward beef patty and bun that demonstrate how good a burger can turn out by doing the basics and doing them well.
On top of that nearly perfect patty, there’s a choice of toppings, all available at no extra charge, and they include lettuce, tomato, raw or grilled onions, grilled mushrooms, jalapeño, grilled bell peppers … the list goes on. Suffice it to say that it’s hard to find a combination that isn’t to your personal taste. All the veggies are fresh and never distract from the goodness of the rest of the burger.
The menu here isn’t big: burgers, kosher beef hot dogs, a chicken sandwich, excellent house-made chili, fries and fixin’s.
The names for the items usually evoke a grin: The half-pound burger is the Fattboy; a quarter-pound burger, the Slimmboy; a hot dog, Fattdog. The chicken sandwich requires a sense of humor. It’s the Fattchick. Fortunately, it’s very good, too. This chicken breast comes out thick and juicy. A server at the counter said she loves it with bacon and cheese, and it certainly was good with the extras, but that chicken breast really didn’t need it. Maybe just some toppings.
Fries are freshly cut, well fried and sprinkled with seasoned salt. No pre-fab food here.
Ordering is simple. Walk up the counter, order, pay, grab a table, and a server or two — often including owner Frankie Torrez — will deliver the order to the table.
Even though the burgers are amazing and the chicken sandwich comes out nicely, the hot dogs more than hold their own. With or without the flavorful chili, the dogs rise to a level this simple dish rarely reaches. These links are split in half, seared on the grill and served on a New England hot dog bun with straight white sides that crisp like Texas Toast.
Throughout the menu, there’s a level of attention that hot dogs, burgers, fries and chili rarely receive, and the effort pays off.
Man, these burgers are good.